20. The Last Half-Mile
" The Last Half-Mile," Kirkstone Pass. - This is the steepest and highest Lakeland main road, the connecting link between Ambleside, or Windermere, and Ullswater.
The little inn at the top, one of the many highest houses in England, is nearly 1,500 feet above sea level. A large block of stone
"whose church-like frame
gives to the savage pass its name"
stands on the slope of Red Screes Mountain on the Ullswater side of the Pass, and is known as the Kirk Stone.
"Early Morning," Rydal. - Northward, about two miles from Ambleside, we encounter this small but certainly one of the most delectable of all the Lakes. It looks its best from the main road; indeed, for a hundred yards on either side of Wordsworth's Seat - a rocky pulpit with stone steps ascribed to the poet - the peeps of the lake with foliage-clad margin and mountains beyond are entirely beautiful. The last cottage by the roadside on the right is Nab Cottage, the home of Hartley Coleridge, while Rydal Mount, Wordsworth's home for thirty-eight years, can be glimpsed through the trees on the breast of Nab Scar.